Автор Тема: The new Upflow Algae Scrubber (UAS)  (Прочитано 62349 раз)

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Re: The new Upflow Algae Scrubber (UAS)
« Ответ #90 : 11 Май 2014, 18:05:01 »
Unshure your question.

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Re: The new Upflow Algae Scrubber (UAS)
« Ответ #91 : 13 Май 2014, 23:17:32 »
Т.к. хетаморфа расти отказалась, смастерил в шахте скраббер. Вопреки всем моим ожиданиям на сетке пошло расти циано  #^wacko3^

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Re: The new Upflow Algae Scrubber (UAS)
« Ответ #91 : 13 Май 2014, 23:17:32 »

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Re: The new Upflow Algae Scrubber (UAS)
« Ответ #92 : 14 Май 2014, 05:26:38 »
Потребности сильным светом, и больше пузырьков воздуха.

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Re: The new Upflow Algae Scrubber (UAS)
« Ответ #93 : 25 Май 2014, 18:56:17 »
What is Periphyton?

Periphyton is what turns your rocks different colors. You know... the white rocks you started with in SW, or the grey rocks (or brown wood) you started with in FW. After several months or years, the rocks become a variety of different colors and textures. Why? Because the periphyton that has grown on it is a mix of different living things, of different colors, and thicknesses. And the important part is: It is LIVING.

That's right: The colored stuff that has coated your rocks is all living organisms. Sponges, microbes, algae, cyano, biofilms, and of course coralline. After all, "peri" means "around the outside", and "phyto" means "plant". Ever slipped in a slippery puddle? That's probably periphyton that made it slippery. It's a very thin coating on the rocks, sometimes paper thin.

There is a lot of photosynthetic organisms in periphyton, and this of course means that they need light; but they need nutrients too (ammonia, nitrate, phosphate). And as you might figure, they will be on the lighted portions of the rocks. And they will grow to intercept food particles in the water, based on the water flow. Just think about how sponges orient their holes for water flow; the micro sponges in periphyton do it too but on a tiny scale.

What about under the rocks, in the dark areas? Well these periphyton don't get light, so they are primarily filter feeders. So they REALLY grow and position themselves to be able to intercept food particles. And they don't really need to fight off algae, because algae does not grow in the dark, so they have no need for anti-algae tactics like plants in the light have.

Reef studies have show that at certain depths, more of the filtering of the water comes from periphyton and benthic algae than comes from the phytoplankton which filters the deeper water. And in streams, almost all the filtering is done by periphyton. So, what you have on rocks that are "mature" or "established" is a well-developed layer of periphyton; and all the things that comes from it.

This is why mandarin fish can eat directly off the rocks of an "established" tank (tons of pods grow in the periphyton), but not on the rocks of a new tank. Or why some animals can lay their eggs on established rocks, but not new ones. Or why established tanks seem to "yo-yo" less than new ones. Even tangs can eat periphyton directly when it's thick enough. Yes periphyton can also develop on the sand, but since the sand is moved around so much, the periphyton does not get visible like it does on rocks. So thick periphyton on established rocks is your friend. And totally natural too. Keep in mind though I'm not referring to nuisance algae on rocks; I'm only referring to the very-thin layer of coloring that coats the rocks.

But what happens when you "scrape the stuff off your rocks"? Well you remove some of the periphyton, which means you remove some of your natural filter and food producer. What if you take the rocks out and scrub them? Well now you not only remove more of your natural filter and food producer, but the air is going to kill even more of the microscopic sponges in it. And what if you bleach the rocks? Well, goodbye all filtering and food producing for another year. It's an instant reduction of the natural filtering that the periphyton was providing.

However, what if you just re-arrange the rocks? Well, some of the periphyton that was in the light, now will be in the dark; so this part will die. And some of the periphyton that was in the dark will now be in the light, so it will not be able to out-compete photosynthetic growth and thus will be covered and die too. And even if the light stays the same, the direction and amount of water flow (and food particles) will change; sponges that were oriented to get food particles from one direction will now starve. So since the light and food supply is cut off, the filtering that the periphyton was providing stops almost immediately from just re-arranging.

Starvation takes a little longer. The periphyton organisms won't die immediately, since they have some energy saved up; but instead, they will wither away over several weeks. So on top of the instant reduction in filtering that you get my just moving the rocks, you get a somewhat stretched-out period of nutrients going back into the water. And after all this, it takes another long period of time for the periphyton to build up to the levels it was at before. Even changing the direction of a powerhead will affect the food particle supply in the area it used to be pointed at.

So a good idea is to try to keep everything the same. Pick your lighting, flow, layout, and try to never move or change anything. It's a different way of thinking, but you should have a stronger natural filter and food producer because of it.



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Re: The new Upflow Algae Scrubber (UAS)
« Ответ #94 : 04 Июль 2014, 00:59:29 »
только хороший аквариум:
Very nice scrubber-only tank:
http://algaescrubber.net/forums/showthread.php?2702-180g-Show-Tank&p=35853&viewfull=1#post35853

персональный сайт:
His personal page:
http://home.comcast.net/~dgrigor/

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Re: The new Upflow Algae Scrubber (UAS)
« Ответ #95 : 04 Июль 2014, 11:57:45 »
Замена 1/5 воды в неделю!
Не ошибается тот, кто не пробует (это не я сказал, но нравится) !!!

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Re: The new Upflow Algae Scrubber (UAS)
« Ответ #96 : 04 Июль 2014, 13:40:16 »
Замена 1/5 воды в неделю!
Замена всего 12% (15 галлонов из 180) в неделю. Временами, если при осмотре аквариума видны проблемы замена 40 галлонов.
TEMPORA MUTANTUR ET NOS MUTAMUR IN ILLIS.

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Re: The new Upflow Algae Scrubber (UAS)
« Ответ #97 : 04 Июль 2014, 14:19:30 »
Total water change per month = 5 X 50g bags of Instant Ocean ( 1.25 boxes per month ). I have gone 2 weeks per water changes occasionally and noted no accumulation of nitrate/phosphate during the time period so I could get by with less if I wanted to but as you will see from the description the water changes fit well with my export of detritus routine so I stick with it.


Weekly Maintenance ( Total time about 1 hour worth of work ):
Water change. 1 full 50g bag of instant ocean @ 35ppt. Estimate it at 40g usuable.

Где увидилась цифра 15 ?
« Последнее редактирование: 04 Июль 2014, 14:21:41 от sam »
Не ошибается тот, кто не пробует (это не я сказал, но нравится) !!!

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Re: The new Upflow Algae Scrubber (UAS)
« Ответ #98 : 04 Июль 2014, 18:35:47 »
So I usually remove 15 gallons from the show and recycle it to the 29g. Add the same amount back to the 180g show tank to complete the water change.  Estimate it takes about  30minutes tom complete the water change process including the 29g maintenance.

Occasionally depending on my gut feel on how the tank is doing from observation, I may go ahead and do a 45g water change ( which is the size of my mixing station ) usually though its a smaller 15g water change. Water changes are pretty quick and easy. I drain the water via a siphon from the show to a floor drain. Then just pump the water from my saltwater mixing station in the fish room to the sump. 

))) В разных местах автор пишет по разному. Я читал только сайт, форум не смотрел.
« Последнее редактирование: 04 Июль 2014, 19:45:46 от Voodoo »
TEMPORA MUTANTUR ET NOS MUTAMUR IN ILLIS.

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Re: The new Upflow Algae Scrubber (UAS)
« Ответ #99 : 04 Июль 2014, 18:46:20 »
Я не делаю никаких изменений воды. Нитрат = 0, фосфат = 0,13

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Re: The new Upflow Algae Scrubber (UAS)
« Ответ #100 : 04 Июль 2014, 19:48:02 »
Я не делаю никаких изменений воды. Нитрат = 0, фосфат = 0,13
Only scrubber without any water change?
TEMPORA MUTANTUR ET NOS MUTAMUR IN ILLIS.

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Re: The new Upflow Algae Scrubber (UAS)
« Ответ #101 : 04 Июль 2014, 21:16:23 »
Мы не узнаем правды никогда :) !
Не ошибается тот, кто не пробует (это не я сказал, но нравится) !!!

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Re: The new Upflow Algae Scrubber (UAS)
« Ответ #102 : 05 Июль 2014, 18:44:42 »
Да многие люди с низким нитратов и фосфатов не имеют ATS or UAS только, никаких изменений воды

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Re: The new Upflow Algae Scrubber (UAS)
« Ответ #103 : 13 Ноябрь 2014, 03:14:56 »
Тень ткань

Shade cloth:

All new scrubbers which use white growth surfaces should have a black cloth placed over some of the LEDs for the first week or two. Because the all-white interior reflects so much light, when it is new the light levels are way above the highest amount that can grow anything. Once growth starts, the white surfaces get covered with growth and the total light levels drop, and the cloth can be removed. Any cloth, stocking, or t-shirt can work; just don't melt the cloth with hot LEDs  :)

This covering of the lights can be done by anyone, on any scrubber, even waterfalls. Waterfalls use plastic canvas which has more holes than material, and they are not in white compartments, so the light levels when new are not that high. But it still might help if a new screen stays completely empty or had bald spots.

The reason for a white colors, of course, is too allow more light to reach the base of the growth that does the attaching to the surfaces. As the growth gets thicker, the bottom layers will almost be in darkness, so the white surface doubles the light there by reflecting instead of absorbing the light.

Put the shade cloth about 2/3 or 3/4 over the lights; this way you can see which part grows better: the covered, or uncovered.

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Re: The new Upflow Algae Scrubber (UAS)
« Ответ #104 : 13 Июнь 2015, 23:47:58 »
Scrubbers compared to refugiums

If you are starting a new tank, then the obvious difference is that a scrubber gives you the option of not having a fuge at all because an upflow scrubber can be placed on top of, in, or behind, the display. There are other uses for a sump/fuge of course, but we'll only cover the filtration concerns here.

A not-so-obvious difference is that a scrubber, if run together with a fuge with macros, will kill the macros even though the macros are much larger. This is because the scrubber thinks the macros are nuisance algae. Some people do run both together without killing the macros, but this is just because their scrubber is not strong enough, and actually the macros might even be slowing down the scrubber because the scrubber thinks it has to remove the macros, along with the nutrients in the water and the nuisance algae in the display. However if this works for them, good.

But assuming you have to decide on either a sump/fuge or a scrubber (not both)...

o Filtration with algae is proportional photosynthesis, which is proportional to Light X Air Water Turbulence Flow X Attachment. Meaning, stronger light grows more algae; stronger air/water interface turbulence grows more algae; and stronger attachment lets more algae grow without it detaching and floating away. A scrubber is thus designed to maximize Light, Flow, and Attachment.

o The main problem with macros in a refugium is the self-shading that the macros do. Any part of the macro which is not directly in front of the light at any moment is not filtering. And any macro inside of a "ball" of macro (like chaeto) is self-shaded all the time. Only the surface macro that is directly in front of the light is doing any real filtering. A scrubber is designed to have all the algae in front of the light at all times. Rotating the macro does not solve the problem, because the time that the macro is rotated away from the light is time that the macro is not filtering. This is why it takes a much larger size of chaeto to do the same filtering as a scrubber.

o Self-flow-blocking is another problem of macros in a refugium, for the same reason as light-blocking. And the thicker the "ball" of macro, the worse the flow-blocking.

o Particle trapping is another result of a ball of macro. These particles need to cycle back around to feed the corals, but instead they get trapped in the macro and they rot, and in doing so they block even more flow and light.

o With a scrubber, there is very little water standing in the way of the light. Also, the light is (or should be) very close to the scrubber... 4 inches (10cm) or less. The power of light varies with the inverse square of the distance, so going from 8" to 4" actually gives you 4X the power, not 2X. And the nutrient removal power of algae is proportional to the power of the light, because it's the photosynthesis that is doing the filtering.

o Rapid flow across the algae in a scrubber gives more delivery of nutrients, compared to the slow moving water in a fuge. Filtering is proportion to nutrient flow.

o The turbulence of water moving over the sections of algae in a scrubber help to remove the boundary layer of water around the algae. This boundary layer slows the transfer of metabolites in and out of the algae. There is no turbulence in a fuge (if there were, you'd have waves and bubbles). The interface between the air and water is what provides the most turbulence and boundary layer removal; there is no air/water interface in macros.

o Scrubbers do not let food particles settle like a refugium does; most particles flow right out of the scrubber.

o Scrubbers do not (if cleaned properly) release algal strands into display, like chaeto does.

o Scrubbers do not go sexual, like caulerpa can.

o Scrubbers do grow lots of pods; more than was previously thought, especially if not cleaned with freshwater.

o Scrubber don't, obviously, provide a place for snails and crabs, etc.

However, if you already have a sump with an empty compartment, and you don't mind using all of it and putting a light over it, then maybe it's easier and cheaper to try macros first.